INTEL: Italian Tailors

O'MAST from Kid Dandy on Vimeo.

If you think caring about how you dress makes you soft, watch this fantastic video of Italian tailors talking about their trade. I think you'll feel differently. From Inquiring Minds.

INTEL: Cycling in Barcelona

Cycle Chic Goes to Barcelona from Copenhagenize on Vimeo.

INTEL: Dress Code, Fall 2010

Ahh, crisp fall weather. Nothin' like it. But that means it's time to start dressing again. The old "It's too hot for a collared shirt" excuse just ain't gonna fly.

BDC's FALL 2010 DRESS CODE

Jacket: Lose the fleece. Lose the Gore-Tex. Lose the college sweatshirt. It's fine stuff for camping and tailgating but save it all for your next dirt fight. Instead, get yourself a sport coat or blazer that fits well and wear the hell out of it. Obviously, you can go nuts and get a really gorgeous one, but this is going to be an everyday garment. An inexpensive corduroy one will do fine. The important thing again is fit. The jacket should not add any weight to your appearance and the sleeves should not extend beyond that ball in your wrist when your arms are at your side.
TIP: If you get a blue blazer, beware that pairing it with grey trousers might make you look like a security guard. Avoid this by wearing a shirt in any color but white, and brown shoes instead of black.

Cardigan: This is NOT going to be an everyday garment, but you can get a ton of mileage out of it. Make sure it's dark, and wear it in place of your jacket on mild days.
TIP: On cool days, wear a cardigan beneath your jacket - buttoned, it will create this cool waistcoat effect. My pattern for buttoning is--top undone, bottom two undone.


Shirt: Wear button-down collared shirts as much as possible. As I stated in my very first post, button-down collar shirts always look neat, even if you don't have time to press them properly. Point- and spread- collar shirts look too sloppy when they aren't ironed, and too dressy when they are. Get the slimmest ones you can find and don't worry about the neck being the right size - you're not going to be buttoning the top button anyway.
TIP: No Easter egg colors here. Stick with whites, blues, grays. And don't be afraid of check patterns.

Tie: Get some casual ties and rock them. What do I mean by casual? Generally, stay away from anything that has a graphic or looks like some sort of optical illusion. And nothing too shiny or silky looking. Go for solids or stripes, in a robust fabric like wool or cotton. **The GQ Eye did a post about this yesterday. $10 ties at Uniqlo.
TIP: The width of your tie says something about its formality. (Not sure if I said that correctly.) For example, at its widest, my tuxedo neck tie is about three or more inches across. My casual ties are all under two and three-quarters inches.

Trousers/Jeans: This one is simple. Your jeans should be dark, your trousers should be pleat free, everything should fit.

Shoes: Leave your sneakers in the closet and your hiking boots in the mountains. This year, you're wearing shoes or non-sporty boots. I recommend finding a nice casual chukka, like the Clark Desert Boot, or a pair of inexpensive oxfords that you can just destroy.
TIP: Go with brown shoes, here. Black shoes look great, but they're not nearly as versatile. I think the Italians have a saying like, "Black shoes are only for funerals and galas." Or something.

INTEL: Vintage, Hermes-Crafted "Purse Watch"

Hodinkee, everyone's favorite timepiece blog, posted this cool pocket watch a few days ago.

It's smaller than you think - 37mm by 42mm - has a mechanical movement, and a "digital" display, sans hands.

Some people just don't want to wear a watch, and this is an elegant alternative to the iPhone. In fact, it gets me thinking - might someone resurrect the pocket watch?

INTEL: Ramblers Way Farm

You know Tom's of Maine Toothpaste? The stuff that sort of tastes like a minty mixture of soap, peroxide and spackle? Well, they've founded a really, really cool clothing company.

Ramblers Way Farm makes wool comfort wear. That's right folks. It's wool. And it's comfortable. Weird, right? Basically, they've figured out a way to spin the yarn in some super-fine way, and the clothes are designed to be worn against your skin.

The stuff is pricey, but here's why - everything is made in America. Everything. The yarn is spun in America. The pieces are assembled at a factory in America. The sheep are an American breed, grown on farms in Colorado, Montana, South Dakota, Texas and Utah. When you wear Ramblers Way, American airport officials wave you through security with a wink and a smile. Goddam right.

The flat seams make for cool detailing. I really dig the blue henley above and the grey, hooded cardigan.

INTEL: What About a Bow Tie?

J.Crew's Keats-Stripe Bow Tie

Even though we eventually stop buying new school clothes, the idea of renewing our look every fall survives well into adulthood. When you're out looking for new gear over the next few weeks, you'll surely notice that bow ties are now widely available. Yes, they're tempting. But consider the following before you pull the trigger.

Fashion is like English - replete with ambiguity, splendid when gotten right, and certain people just have a way with it. If you already rock a bow tie with confidence, you could probably give a damn what I think - I heartily salute you.

But if you're on the fence, and most men are, remember that bow ties are a stunt accessory. They scream, "Look at me!" Glenn O'Brien calls them the conservative equivalent of a nose-ring. Sophisticated style should be understated.

Plus, if you're a girthy bloke, a bow tie is definitely going to work against you. Neck ties have this wonderful slimming ability - think vertical stripes - but a bow tie is going to sort of accentuate your ab. Think hefty bag.

Of course, the bow tie does have its place - I greatly prefer one with a tux. Otherwise, I say leave them be. At least until you can grow some grey in that 'stache. After all, one of the beauties of old age is that it gets much harder to look like doucher.

INTEL: Gilded Again

The New York Times's style guy Bill Cunningham has done a few pieces this summer about Jazz Age inspired parties throughout the city, the latest of which he shot last weekend at Governer's Island.

The parties look super fun and stylish, but Cunningham implies that this could be the seed of a new trend. I think they're more a reaction than anything else. Grandpa's stuff is everywhere these days, isn't it? Pop into an Urban Outfitters, Top Man, J.Crew, H&M, or Gap, and it's wingtip brogues, trilbys, tweed, and bowties. We're all loving it, and a few are taking it to the extreme in a celebration of our more stylish former selves. Pretty cool.

See Cunningham's video, here.

INTEL: Steven Alan and Dockers Team Up

I have this love/hate relationship with khakis - love the idea of them, pretty much hate wearing them. Why? Because while they have all this potential as an alternative to jeans during the summer, they always have a billowy, sloppy fit.

So, I was thrilled today when The New York Times announced that Steven Alan and Dockers are getting together to offer a new line of khakis for Barney's due out this October. They'll be available in three fits, and, yes, they'll be expensive - $128 according to the article. But as the Times points out, Alan has this knack for nailing the perfect balance between "fitted-ness" and "slouchy-ness." Here's hoping he delivers.

INTEL: Copenhagen Bicycle Rush Hour

Bicycle Rush Hour in Copenhagen from Copenhagenize on Vimeo.

I want my city to live this way.

INTEL: Go Shopping (Alden DC)

In 2005, DC's Alden, located for years on K Street, moved a few blocks nearer the buzz at Gallery Place to 9th and F Streets. Somehow, I'd managed to miss it until last week. As you can see, the place is exactly what you'd hope for - sort of a cross between a library and a high-end locker room.

To be sure, Alden's website is an absolute disaster. Maybe they're trying to add to their classic image or something - "Yeah, um, we don't exactly do the Internet" - but I really can't see myself ever releasing credit card information to that travesty. So I was delighted to check out the real thing and super impressed by the bargains.

They didn't have rack upon rack of clearance items, and thank god for that. Digging for deals sucks. Instead, they had four shoes or so, marked down anywhere from 50 - 75 percent, including a gorgeous pair of cordovan wingtip brogues in oxblood for $200. (They retail for something like $600.)

It was also a treat to talk to the saleswoman. She knew and loved her product, was happy to chat, and did not once push me to open my wallet. Plus, she schooled me; there are only two Alden retailers on the East Coast - one in New York, one in DC. That's it. Despite popular belief, there is not one in Massachusetts. (Only the factory lives there.)

The lesson here is that we need to get off our asses once in a while. Shopping on the net is convenient and fun, but the best deals out there are still, well, out there. Good hunting.

INTEL: Parisians Love Ralph Lauren Burgers

After four years of renovating a mid-eighteenth century building on Paris's Rive Gauche, Ralph Lauren opened his titanic 13,000 square foot flagship store this spring. But what's creating the most buzz at the moment is his restaurant. According to an interview with Lauren in Harper's Bazaar, Vera Wang can't even get a table.

To be fair, whether or not Parisians love the place is unclear - 35 percent of shoppers in Polo's Parisian stores are tourists. This is probably just some elaborate ruse so that the wait-staff can laugh at us as we say, "Je prend un cheeseburger and fries."

The restaurant, housed in the rear of the building's the first level, includes some nice outdoor seating and is adorned with all sorts of American stuff. The burgers cost €24 (about $30), and word is they are worth every penny. On the odd chance anyone happens to read this blog and gets a chance to check the place out, let me know what you think.

INTEL: Military Surplus

With the exception of the classic pea coat, military inspired trends ebb and flow. Fatigue and field jackets are super hot at the moment, flight jackets were hot a few years ago, cargo pants seem to come in and go out every few years, and berets will hopefully remain too fancy for civilians for the balance of my lifetime.

With fall around the corner, you'll be seeing a lot of this stuff. But here's a recession-friendly tip - before you buy that GI sweater, take a second and check out a military surplus store online.

For example, J.Crew is selling their Timex Vintage Military Watch for $150. It looks like this -

I love this watch. But I think $150 is a lot of money for a simple Timex field watch with a quartz movement. So, I Googled "military surplus watch" and started clicking. I found these at a surplus store out of Edwards, Illinois called IMS-PLUS.

(NOTE - I've neither purchased nor seen any of these first hand. I have, however, seen J.Crew's Timex and it's a quality piece. I'm offering the following merely as an inexpensive way to get the look.)

The Benrus WWII Watch, $139.95 - Still a little steep, but it has a mechanical movement. Plus, it's authentic - Benrus really did make watches for WWII GIs.

General Purpose Watch, $39.95 - This is the most inexpensive watch with a mechanical movement I've ever seen. (A mechanical movement, as opposed to a quartz movement, means that it has no battery. Mechanical movements are mechanized - springs, gears, stuff like that. You wind it up like grandpa used to do.)

Squad Leader Watch, $19.95 - This thing looks almost exactly like the J.Crew version, though I can't imagine it's as durable or well made. Still, it's a cheap way to get the look, and at $20 you could by them two at a time. Word to the wise - I'd keep it away from water.

Now, of course, to really nail the look you'll need that cool J.Crew band with the metal D-rings. It's called a NATO watchband. Again, Google it and you might find a better deal.

Good hunting.

INTEL: Cold Feet

It seems as though we've only got two seasons here on the East Coast anymore - Hot-as-Hell and Friggin'-Freezing. And though we're stuck in the throes of the former at the moment, the latter is just around the corner.

Last fall, I bought my first pair of Clark's Original Desert Boots.

I absolutely loved them from the start. They look good with everything. Then it poured one January weekend in Manhattan and I might as well have been bare-footed. I know. I can hear you from here. "Dude. Desert Boots."

Don't get me wrong, these are still my favorite shoes and I think every guy should have a pair. But as much as I'd love to see what trench foot is all about, I've got to upgrade before things get ugly around here.

BDC'S CAN'T MISS BOOT PICKS
Alden Indy Boot

Alden is one of the oldest shoe manufacturers in the United States, and you won't find a better boot than this. The bomb-proof waxhide leather will keep you dry and warm for years, and the more miles you add to them, the cooler they'll look. Just ask Dr. Jones.

I really, really want a pair of these. But at $400+, I'm not sure I can spring.


Bean Boot by LL Bean, 6"

This is the product that started the entire LL Bean empire. They now carry several versions of the boot at their regular store, and a few more in their Signature line. (ACL just featured one from the Signature line which looks particularly sharp.)

If I were taller, maybe I'd go for a higher boot, but I don't have much leg to surrender. I'm sticking with the basic 6" chukka in brown. And at $80 a pair, you could outfit yourself and four of your friends for what you'll drop on the Indys. Oh, by the way - Life. Time. Warranty.


Red Wing Gentleman Traveler

Red Wing manufactures real boots for men who work for a living. With entire lines called "Logger" and "Lineman," this, apparently, is their fancy boot. It seems the Red Wing gentleman knows how to handle an oxy-acetylene blow torch. And why not?

Of course, there are many, many others. Let me know what I'm missing.

INTEL: The MB&F HM4

The MB&F HM4 Thunderbolt Live from Hodinkee on Vimeo.

This watch is retro futurism at its finest - remember Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow? 150 hours go into machining the sapphire. That's about a month's worth of labor. On the sapphire. Alone. Watch the video then go to Hodinkee for more.

INTEL: Union Made Goods

The economic euphoria of the early to mid aughts was artificial. Thanks Bernie.

Our reaction to this has been a renewed interest in authenticity. We won't get fooled again. The "buy local" movement is dominating the food and fashion industry, and, as New York Magazine points out, is even bleeding into the publishing industry. All very cool.

Now, one of the best places to get cool, authentic American goods has gone online. San Francisco's Union Made Goods launched their new site yesterday. Have some.

INTEL: The Fantastic Four

With few exceptions, Glenn O'Brien's word is law with me. I know he can get a little bitchy, but the guy is damn near flawless when it comes to sartorial advice. So when The GQ Eye posted an archived note from O'Brien on buying a watch today, I thought I'd have a little fun with it.

O'Brien writes, "I have a lot of watches, but I wear only about four of them."

Fine, Glenn. Four it is.

BDC's TOP FOUR WATCHES UNDER $4000*
*I know. $4000 is a lot of do-re-mi. But this is the only piece of jewelry you'll ever buy yourself. Or, at least it should be. Do it right.

Note - Click the name of the watch to see it.

The Omega Speedmaster Professional
I love stuff that has a good back story, and this one doesn't get much better. You can read all about it here, but the gist is that NASA needed a watch that could handle going to space, and this was the only one that survived its ridiculous battery of tests. For me, this is THE watch.

The Fortis Flieger Automatic Chronograph
This is a close second to the Speedy Pro. (It's also much more affordable.) The Flieger is the official European cosmonaut watch. I love the leather band and chunky crown, and the dial looks like something from a flight instrument panel. Not that I'd know.

The Bell & Ross Vintage 123 Black
No great story with this one, I'm afraid. Launched in 1992, Bell & Ross is an embryo compared to most of its esteemed colleagues in the luxury timepiece market. Still, they make gorgeous, quality stuff. The face on this one reminds me of old clocks you see at railway stations. This would be my "dress" watch. I'd even wear it with a tux. (Yes, James Bond has been steering us wrong all these years. No watch with a tux. Technically.)

The TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic
I know, TAG is a bit obvious. But the one I've linked to here is a really handsome watch with an automatic movement that you can find in many department stores. And it's a little more refined than the standard "look at me" stainless steel, newly-minted lawyer-who-didn't-know-how-else-to-spend-his-cash model.

INTEL: Conde Nast Traveler Dress Codes

Americans are great people and I'm proud to call myself one eighty to ninety percent of the time. But I'm not sure I've ever been flattered to be recognized as one. I know, I'm a commie.

But we really dress like shit, especially when we're abroad. Fanny packs, white sneakers, "Everyone got a bottle of water?" You can see, and hear, us coming a mile away.

Conde Nast Traveler has tried to help. Before your next trip abroad, have a look at Conde Nast's Etiquette 101: Dress Codes. Posted last fall, it's a five page do-and-don't guide to going native in just about every region of the world you'd ever hope to find yourself in.